Kobe Desramaults has today launched the website of his new restaurant Chambre Séparée and has started taking online bookings. The restaurant will open on 1 June. It is possible to book a seat for June and July already. The restaurant, which opens from Monday to Friday for dinner only will be serving one tasting menu consisting of 20 courses with the dishes being prepared according to the seasons and what the farmers' supply the restaurant. The restaurant only has 16 covers and to ensure the best possible personal experience, the 16 seats can only be booked once or twice at a time. When you book, you will pay immediately for the non-alcoholic menu, a system that is gaining in popularity particularly for restaurants of this sort. You can also book the drinks in advance though you can also order drinks a la carte on the spot. "You may want to compare this dining experience to a concert where you are in the hands of the chefs." Given the type of restaurant, they will not be able to meet … [Read more...]
Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #114
An ode to offal: Romans are proud of their city’s unique cuisine and borderline obsessed with their historic dishes. It’s one of the reasons local dishes dominate the city’s tables and other Italian regional cooking is treated as exotic and distinct. Many of Rome’s recipes were developed over the past 150 years as the city grew from a hungry rural village into a booming European capital of over 4 million. While the city’s economy has improved significantly, Romans continue to celebrate their humble and historic cucina povera(dishes fashioned from poor cuts of meat and offal) as a way to stay connected to the past. Today trattoria menus, butcher shops, supermarkets, and even fast food joints proudly showcase these ingredients. Thomas Keller, an Exacting Chef at a Crossroads: In the tight confines of a New York cab, Thomas Keller leaned against his interviewer’s shoulder. It was an intimate move for a chef whose hallmarks are precision, decorum and control. Mr. Keller wanted to talk … [Read more...]
Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #113
Champagne - losing its fizz? For years champagne ran the most sophisticated and effective public relations machine in the world of wine. Consumers were convinced that champagne and only champagne was the socially acceptable lubricant for celebrations and smart dinner parties. Food 3.0: It's Time For A Food Revolution: Picture this. You’re born into a family of immense wealth. The family business is one of the most well-liked and popular companies in America. You’re the heir to the throne. All you need to do is take the keys and you’ll enjoy unbounded success and admiration. You’d probably take that gig, right? You wouldn’t dedicate your life to helping people avoid the very thing your family is known for. That would be crazy. The Next Great Age of Peruvian Cuisine: Trinidad Huamani and Francisco Quico are making an oven out of the earth. They collect stones and chunks of clay from the farmland around them, then form a small dome, held together by the shear force of gravity, with … [Read more...]
What impact does social media have on creativity and our restaurant experience?
Social media and the smartphone may be creating havoc not only in how we experience a restaurant but also in how chefs approach food and how they innovate. People are busy looking at their phones wherever I look. I am interested not only in what they are doing but also in how they are using their phones. Some have their earphones on and are listening to music or their latest favourite podcast. Most are using social media from Instagram to Facebook. There is also a lot of Messaging going on whether its through SMS, WhatsApp or Snapchat. It is difficult to keep up amid this ‘noise’. I am writing this piece from a cafe and while I have my laptop which keeps me focused on writing, it takes an effort to not pick up my phone and ‘follow the crowd’. On the way to the place where I decided to write this piece, I lost count of the number of people that were playing with their phones while driving, walking or even riding their bicycles. It seems like no place is safe from the greatest … [Read more...]
Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #112
A job for life: the ‘new economy’ and the rise of the artisan career: Whatever you think of the gig economy, it does throw up some amusingly bizarre jobs. Set Sar, of Providence, Rhode Island, told this paper in 2015 that he earns a crust by looking at videos and web pages on his computer while having his eyeball movements tracked via webcam. The information this provides is valuable to advertisers — and earns him a dollar every few minutes. In its higher echelons, the gig economy has led to an array of jobs with “consultant” in their title, as people find ingenious ways to peddle niche services to the rich. In New York, for example, “play date consultants” charge up to $400 an hour to teach the progeny of millionaires to share their toys. The Real Cost and Benefit of (Temporarily) Moving an Entire Restaurant to the Other Side of the Globe: In less than a year, the restaurant Olmsted has become something of a fixture in its Prospect Heights neighborhood, with the dining experience … [Read more...]
‘Jeremiah Tower had to let go for the documentary to work’- Lydia Tenaglia (film director)
Jeremiah Tower’s impact on the gastronomic world, particularly in the United States has been huge for those in the know. But for many, he was just a forgotten figure and most people interested in the food scene today would probably never have heard of the name before. This is because until 2014 he was mostly forgotten because he was on what many viewed as a self-imposed exile. So it must not have been an easy task for Director Lydia Tenaglia and executive producer Anthony Bourdain to get the US chef to reveal his story from his childhood to the years at the legendary Chez Panisse and then Stars while also depicting what happened since he left Stars. When I interviewed director Lydia Tenaglia on her documentary film Jeremiah Tower, the Last Magnificent which will be released in cinemas this week in New York and LA on 21 April after its success at the Tribeca film festival last year, I was curious to how she had managed to convince someone who had disappeared from the limelight to … [Read more...]
Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #111
If you’re a European, your body requires more vegetables and grains: A new study of hundreds of human genomes has revealed that groups in various regions of the world have evolved for diets with different amounts of meat and vegetables. People from Europe, particularly its southern regions, are optimized for a high-plant diet. But people from other areas, such as the Inuit of Greenland, have a biochemistry that is better able to process lots of meat fat. We can learn a lot from how the French do lunch: For many of us, a work lunch means clearing space between your keyboard and mouse for some hastily-eaten snacks. One 2014 study found that of those who did manage to get a lunch break, half ate at their desks. But, while it may seem more productive to catch up on emails while you eat, there’s plenty of research that suggests the opposite. Rene Redzepi on the new Noma: It’s a fair bet that come summer 2017, the eyes of the food world—always ready for the next, the new, and the … [Read more...]
New Kobe Desramaults restaurant in Gent to open in June
The new restaurant by Kobe Desramaults in Gent is expected to open in June, the Belgian chef has said on his instagram feed. He said that the restaurant will be small but very ambitious and would welcome two trainees every two months. Those interested should send a resume and motivational letter (Check out his instagram feed for more details). Desramaults has not cooked professionally for 4 months and is missing it. In an Instagram post he said he couldn't wait to open the new restaurant and "was keeping the mojo flowing by cooking at home." The talented and world renowned Belgian chef rose to fame with his unique cooking style and was pure and natural with no classic dishes or traditional sauces. In December 2016, he closed a 12-year-old chapter as he and his team cooked the last dinner at In De Wulf in Dranouter. Desramaults also had another restaurant De Vitrine in Gent which closed in December and made way for a Mexican pop-up restaurant, La Chaparrita until May as … [Read more...]
Interview with Martina Liverani (Dispensa): Creating a lasting impact with a unique publication
When Martina Liverani, writer and founder of Italian food magazine Dispensa (which means pantry in English) created the bi-annual publication in 2013, little did she know that it would eventually reach a global albeit niche audience. "It was only in 2015 during the Milan Expo that we came up with the idea to have a bilingual publication and today this is unique in that it brings many of Italy's beautiful stories to a wider audience," Martina told Food and Wine Gazette. In an age where food has become ubiquitous both online and on TV, it takes courage to go counter-current and launch a paper 'bookazine' as Dispensa is called. Martina explains that she has always been anti-conformist. "That is the reason why I wanted to create a magazine. We are living in a golden age for paper. Paper is showing that it can still compete with digital and inspire people even when people though that it was dead.' "The main difference between paper and digital is that people want to touch paper, … [Read more...]
Everyone likes a bad review: the scathing restaurant review that went viral
Jay Rayner's scathing restaurant review of Paris restaurant Le Cinq has been the talk of the internet since the article appeared online on Sunday morning in the Guardian. It went viral pretty instantly confirming that there is nothing that readers like more than a bashing particularly if this has colourful language and has made the writer angry. Jay Rayner's website collapsed as visitors flocked to get the back story to the Guardian review. Readers on social media were urging their followers to read the article saying that this would be the best thing they read that day and the article instantly went viral. By the time of writing the article had over 2,700 comments on The Guardian. When the restaurant critic termed this his worst experience ever readers got curious. They were amused with the colourful language. It was no wonder with gems like "never did I think the shamefully terrible cooking would slacken my jaw from the rest of my head," or "my lips purse, like a cat's arse … [Read more...]