What happens when you take Brussels and Brabant classic dishes, deconstruct them and then reinvent them? Can tradition meet modernity? Can humble ingredients steal the show in a top class restaurant? And what happens if you get two foreign chefs from France and Portugal to help you reinterpret these dishes at a six hands dinner. That is what happened last Tuesday at Bon Bon restaurant in Woluwe Saint Pierre, a commune in Brussels.Two Michelin star chef Christophe Hardiquest invited the inventive Inaki Azipitarte, chef of the famous Parisian restaurant Le Chateaubriand and Leonardo Perreira, formerly at Noma and now about to embark on a new journey in Porto as he prepares to open his restaurant there. Bon Bon was recently in the news as it will host 20 of the world's best chefs at the first ever Gelinaz! Headquarters event taking place on 10 November. Inaki certainty needed no introduction. He is famed for starting off the bistronomy movement in Paris which was considered one … [Read more...]
Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #89
How Tech Companies Disrupted Silicon Valley’s Restaurant Scene: It wasn’t so long ago that the aroma of Moroccan spiced prawns and wood-oven pizzas wafted out to a downtown street here from the open-air patio of a once popular eatery called Zibibbo. Today that patio is behind locked doors, obscured by frosted glass. The pizza oven is gone. The formerly crowded bar has been converted into a sparsely populated start-up space of a dozen engineers, their bikes and whiteboards. After 17 years in operation, the restaurant closed in 2014. The space is now an American Express venture capital office and a start-up incubator. The building blocks of Japanese cuisine: When it comes to Japanese food, we’ve reached beyond the fifties-era soy sauce, sukiyaki, and tempura and the seventies-era sushi, sashimi, and miso. Now, in this fermentation-crazed time, we are ready to step up our understanding of the building blocks of Japanese cuisine on our way to appreciate how the sauces used in Japanese … [Read more...]
Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #88
Why Are So Many Great NYC Restaurants Closing? It’s Not Just The Rent: It’s happening all over New York City, to restaurants big and small, from acclaimed pioneers, like WD-50, Union Square Café, Telepan, the Campbell Apartment and the Four Seasons, to more humble and beloved spots, like Bianca, Hamilton’s and Brooklyn Fish Camp. All shuttered or packing up because the rent is due and it’s too damn high. How high? The Seagram Building’s owner, RFR Holding, is said to have wanted to raise the Four Seasons’ annual rent to a market rate of $3.7 million from $784,000. Mark Grossich, who took over the Campbell Apartment space 17 years ago, was paying $350,000 a year and offered to pay his landlord, the MTA, $800,000 per year to save his bar. Not enough. Nightlife guru Scott Gerber made a bid for $1.1 million a year, and after a contentious lawsuit with the MTA, Gerber got the deal. Union Square Café’s rent was tripled. No credit for making the neighborhood great in the first … [Read more...]
11 tips on how to avoid a tourist trap
If you travel to any major city or tourist destination in the world, you are bound to encounter more tourist traps than you can handle. And while you might be smug to think that you will be able to spot a tourist trap once you see one, this is not so evident in places which are extremely busy with tourists and which have a bad reputation when it comes to food. Places which welcome many tourists each day are bound to take many short-cuts including with the quality of the produce they serve. Although online crowd-sourcing guides such as Tripadvisor or Yelp may serve as a deterrent compared to the past, they cannot always be relied upon. When you have no control of time on a trip, then you need to be particularly careful if you want to eat well since you might not have time to book a restaurant before hand. That was very much in evidence on a recent very short trip to Venice. While it has a bad reputation when it comes to food, particularly because of the large amount of tourists … [Read more...]
Alain Passard: My garden saved my life – (Chef’s Table review)
Alain Passard is considered to be an idol by many chefs. Three Michelin star chef of restaurant Arpège in Paris, France, he is mainly known for inventing the vegetable to table movement removing meat from his restaurant and serving a cuisine that is mainly focused on seasonal vegetables. Passard has been working with a mainly vegetarian menu at his restaurant since 2001. Although he decided to be a chef at 14 and says he's never changed his mind, he did realise that he no longer wanted to work with meat. His story is beautifully depicted in the first episode of Chef's Table France, the third season of the successful foodie series just released by Netflix. In this documentary directed by David Gelb, Passard speaks about the influence his grandmother had on him and says he can still hear the whistle of the oven when she was cooking with fire. "Her cooking smelled good, it was generous. She had a delicate sense of cooking. I have her recipes but I have never been able to cook as … [Read more...]
Food for thought at the Antwerp à la carte exhibition
Did you know that one third of all food produced in the world each year gets wasted? That is 1.3 billion tonnes. Did you know that it takes to make a litre of beer, it takes 75 litres of water, a kilo of coffee 140 litres of water, 1 kilo of eggs 3,300 litres of water, 1 kilo of wheat 1,ooo litres of water and 1 kg of beef 16,000 litres of water? You can learn about food at the very interesting Antwerp à la carte exhibition on the 5th floor of the MAS museum in the city of Antwerp. The exhibition promises to give you a tasty history of the city but it also opens your eyes to some of the most important contemporary issues relating to food. As you enter the exhibition space, you will be provoked by an art installation by Thomas Rentmeister which depicts a supermarket shopping trolley nearly completely covered in sugar. That's a provocation about the amount of sugar we find in processed products we buy from supermarkets nowadays but it is also eye-opening. How do we feed the … [Read more...]
French chefs in focus in Chef’s Table season 3 to be launched on 2 September
For two consecutive seasons which featured 12 top chefs from around the world, France, the centre of the culinary world was ignored. But that seems to have been a deliberate decision by the producer who have now made amends by launching a whole season focusing on France. The highly successful documentary series featuring top chefs from around the world, will place the focus on France in its third season which launches on Friday 2 September. The chefs that will feature in the third season of Chef's Table are Alain Passard of L'Arpege and Michel Troisgros of Maison Troisgros. Both chefs need no introduction and have been mentors to many of today's rising stars with their approach to cuisine. The other two chefs are Adeline Grattard of Yam’Tcha and Alexandre Couillon of La Marine. The filmmakers embark on a personal look into the daily lives of these chefs from their diverse backgrounds to the evolution and craft of their chosen cuisine as well as their quests for sensory … [Read more...]
Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #87
A Food Crawl Through San Sebastián With One of the World’s Top Chefs: About an hour’s drive east of Bilbao, and just 12 miles west of the French border, lies San Sebastián, a coastal Northern Spain gem of a resort town located in the country’s Basque region. Reputed for its turquoise waters, palm tree–lined streets, and—most of all—its cuisine, San Sebastián which also goes by its Basque name, Donostia—is the area’s culinary capital and counts two of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, in addition to one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars anywhere. But when in town, the best plates aren’t found on white tablecloths. Heston Blumenthal interview: the Fat Duck flies again: Memories are important to Heston Blumenthal. They are the raw material of his wildly imaginative creations at the Fat Duck, and the experience of eating there is designed to stir up powerful feelings of nostalgia, right down to the name of each dish. Current examples include, “Can I have some money for the … [Read more...]
Book review: Grill, Smoke, BBQ by Ben Tish of Ember Yard
Summer and long days are still with us for a few more weeks and therefore the barbecue season remains in full swing even though personally, I love to fire up the barbecue even when it gets colder. There is nothing more satisfying that spending time outdoors, starting the fire and waiting for the charcoal to be ready to start the cooking. While cooking directly with fire is a very old technique that has been with us since many years and is the bedrock of our civilisation, memories of barbecue are not always necessarily optimal. Yes, there was the pleasure of starting the fire, people gathering around the grill but most of the food was far from memorable. There used to be overcooked meat, sausages of dubious quality (which still exist and are still popular with children), hamburgers and overcooked steak. If you might be lucky you could get tuna steaks grilled but these would also be dry as the tendency was to overcook things. But there are some that have taken cooking with fire to … [Read more...]
Weekly roundup of great reads on food and wine #86
How to rain proof your barbecue: Planning a barbecue but worried about the weather? Don’t be put off: follow these tips for great grilling come rain or shine. Plus: recipes you can cook in the oven or over coals. Picking up the baton as the world’s best chef: There’s a persistent clicking sound inside the kitchen of the Hôtel de Ville. It takes a while to locate it and then, I realise… it’s coming from the chef, Franck Giovannini. The at-times frantic clicking on and off of a pen is the only sign of the adrenaline below the surface in this boyish-looking 42-year-old. He’s leading a lunch service at the restaurant in the Lausanne suburbs, which is adorned with three Michelin stars and 19 Gault&Millau points. Last year it was also named best in the world in a new French ranking. But what must it be like to take on the mantle as the world’s top chef at a restaurant where the previous two star cooks died prematurely? Five Star mayor of Turin to create Italy’s first ‘vegetarian … [Read more...]