Food on the Edge founder Jp McMahon, a chef, restauranteur and author has launched a new book Lessons from lockdown: Cooking after COVID. In the foreword, JP says that the year 2020 struck many of us as unprecedented. For some it was expected. “Pandemics happen. But for most of us, we believed they would not happen in our time, that they were a thing of the past. Whatever we thought about our contemporary way of life, the way in which we go about our daily lives, how we work, has utterly changed,” the Irish chef of Aniar Restaurant in Galway wrote. He created the book after cancelling the annual gathering in Galway in October 2020. Food on the Edge had become one of the top events in the field of gastronomy with the Irish chef inviting many top names in the world of food. Instead, he has invited many of his friends to write a message in this ebook that is available to people who are subscribed to the Food on the Edge newsletter. The list of contributors is huge and includes … [Read more...]
The Maltese ftira (flatbread) and how it made it to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list
MALTA: As the sun sets on the horizon children come out of the sea and asks her parents for something to eat. It is the middle of summer and nothing is more appetising that a local flatbread known as ftira with tomatoes, tuna, olives, capers, basil and olive oil. You could say that’s the taste of Malta, the taste of an island in the middle of the Mediterranean. This must be the most common ‘sandwich’ on the Mediterranean island and more often than not it is not the hobza tal-Malti (Maltese loaf) but rather the ftira typical of Malta that is used to quench the appetite after a summer swim. Now, that sourdough flatbread or ftira has been classified as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list. Local historian Noel Buttigieg, who took the lead in presenting the case to UNESCO knows the importance bread has held in local history. He has taken it upon himself to raise awareness and also help raise the quality of this Maltese bread. “We choose the Maltese ftira and … [Read more...]
Is Antwerp becoming Belgium’s gastronomic capital?
BRUSSELS: The Michelin Guide has released its new rankings for Belgium and Luxembourg including a new three Michelin star restaurant in Antwerp but there is one glitch. Restaurants are closed and have been closed since October and there is still no date for their reopening. COVID-19 has been devastating for Belgian restaurants. Closed in the first lockdown in March till June a relatively calm summer was followed by a difficult autumn which culminated with restaurants closing for a second time in October. Until now, there is still no date for the reopening. Some hope that the reopening could take place sometime in March, others are speculating it could well be in April or later. So the announcement of the new Michelin Guide was welcomed not with the usual anticipation. There has been considerably less commentary on social media despite the fact that there was a major shift in the hierarchical order of what many internally consider a fragmented country. The third Michelin star … [Read more...]
What future for restaurant guides?
Guides have the potential to make or break restaurants and careers. When Michelin announced that an Italian chef had clinched a second star for his restaurant in Italy a few days ago he got extremely emotional. That image is a reflection of the importance guides have in the restaurant industry. How a tyre company became so powerful in the restaurant world is another story but as the guides enter their launching season, it is worth reflecting on what the current pandemic means for them and how they have miserably failed to turn a corner. The Michelin guide launched its 2021 guide for Italy a few days ago. Some observers in Italy thought that they would be a bit more ‘accommodating’ this year particularly given the circumstances. But restaurants that have not reopened because of the pandemic where removed from the guide and therefore had their stars removed. Maybe the most significant of those decisions in Italy was the removal of Combal.Zero from the list. The question pundits in … [Read more...]
GELINAZ!: Happening hopefully at a city near you (the full line-up)
Earlier this week, GELINAZ!, a collective of chefs from around the world announced that a new gig was taking place. In these difficult times, when planning anything beyond tomorrow has become close to impossible, GELINAZ! is back with the second stay in tour but this time the aim is to give a voice to chefs around the world that have been hit hard by the pandemic. Now, more details have emerged of the restaurants and chefs that will take part in this edition that will take place on 3 December and will follow with a second performance some time in the new year. Over 130 chefs from around the world (and the number is constantly on the increase) will be taking part in this performance. In every city taking part, there will be one host who will take the role of curator and organiser of the event. They will invite fellow chefs to work on the matrix recipes that they will receive from the ‘silent voices’. These silent voices are chefs who have lost their restaurants because of … [Read more...]
The Douro Boys in the time of the pandemic
When the Douro Boys group was created, the aim behind the idea was not to work together commercially but rather to put the Douro on the wine map. That required a lot of travel both from Portugal and the Douro valley where the wineries are but also into the region. Today, 17 years later and as the group approaches its 20 years since its existence with a pandemic in between, the five wineries which have put the Douro on the wine spotlight are reflecting as to what the future holds. The Douro Boys was set up by the owners of five wineries, Quinta do Vallado, Quinta do Crasto, Quinta Vale D. Maria, Quinta do Vale Meão and the port wine house Niepoort to raise awareness for the Douro region worldwide. Over the past weeks, I sat down (albeit via Zoom) to speak with a representative of each of the wineries to discuss the impact that the Douro Boys have had on Portuguese wine in particular but more importantly what changes they are considering particularly given the COVID-19 pandemic … [Read more...]
Stand-by mode for Hisa Franko as it closes for ‘second lockdown’
KOBARID: When the first lockdown was announced in Slovenia, the team of Hisa Franko, Ana Ros and Valter Kramer's acclaimed restaurant, all stayed in the Slovenian countryside, some out of choice and others because the borders were closed and they were stuck there. Together, as a multinational team, they faced lockdown, helping each other and using the time to work on new projects, to train and prepare the restaurant for the reopening in summer. Now as winter approaches and another closure of restaurants has been enforced by the Slovenian government, the Slovenian chef has said she will unfortunately have to say goodbye to a part of the restaurant's team forever. "A few hours from the second lockdown, I am broken hearted because I have found no more jollies in my pocket to save the work positions of some colleagues. Who is next?" she asked adding it all depended on her, you and us. This has been a difficult year for restaurants worldwide but for Hisa Franko, which was riding … [Read more...]
Summer 2020: Odds and ends
Henry David Thoreau once wrote that one must maintain a little bit of summer even in the middle of winter. You cannot really fault him with that. But there is also the other side to summer, the one where all good intentions go to waste. Finding a writing routine is always a priority for me but summer has a way of disrupting that routine. Not that I am complaining. Writing therefore ended up on the back burner for various reasons. Loss of routine was one of them but also because without realising the previous months had taken their toll when it came to fatigue. Every summer starts with the intention of finding a routine during holidays. But despite all the good intentions, every summer that routine makes way for a certain amount of spontaneity that makes writing close to impossible. Working from home, the lockdown, stress, homeschooling and no break since pretty much Christmas meant there was a level of fatigue that had accumulated which I was not even aware of. How did I … [Read more...]
Nature Chic, a dining room under the trees in Brabant Wallon this summer
Nature Chic is the name of a new concept created during the COVID-19 pandemic. Four people have joined forces to create a culinary experience in the middle of nature. John Paquot, the proprietor of the Ferme d’Odenge, Alain Bianchin, chef of Michelin star restaurant Alain Blainchin and Andre Poes, a sommelier and owner of Nectars du Sommelier and Mickael Williquet have joined forces to create this experience where nature takes centre stage and forms the dining room. During the summer months in Orbais, in the Brabant Wallon region of Belgium, Nature Chic will welcome guests next to a river in the heart of the Belgian countryside. The 'dining room' is open from Thursday to Sunday Under the trees, guests are welcome from 7pm for an aperitif in the middle of the vegetable garden. Champagne and seasonal cocktails are served together with the latest creations prepared from the vegetable garden by the team at Brigitin. At around 8pm, guests will be taken to their table for dinner … [Read more...]
Venissa: A vineyard saved and a new wine launched
VENICE: Enrico Rossetti who was born and lives in Burano, Venice, has become a bit of a symbol of Venice's difficult few months. His photo, taken in front of Venissa, the restaurant he worked in, during the high tides went viral. Now, because of the COVID-19 crisis and Venissa closed, Enrico has started working in the vineyard of the winery that owns the restaurant. The vineyard is home to one of the unique grapes of the region, the Dorona of Venice which is used to make the Venissa wine. Enrico worked at Venissa since 2019 and the company gave him an indefinite contract. But with tourism coming to a complete halt, Enrico has been working in the winery in the winery instead. "I cannot complain. I am working in the 'countryside', in the tranquility of the lagoon and being in the contact with nature is something I really enjoy," he said. But it is not only Enrico's job that has been saved. The walled vineyard of Venissa was also saved from the November high tides that … [Read more...]