Christophe Pauly who hosted three Belgian chefs last year at his restaurant Le Coq aux Champs in Soheit-Tinlot, Belgium, is returning back to cook in their kitchens in the second leg of an interesting round trip After the success of these four-hands dinners at his restaurant, it was always the intention of the Belgian chef to reciprocate the visit by visiting the chefs in their restaurants. The dates for these dinners have now been announced. He will cook with Dimitry Lysens in Tongres at his Michelin star restaurant Magis on 20 September at 8pm. This will be followed by a visit to Filip Claeys' De Jonkman in Bruges on 18 October at 8pm and to Brussels to cook with Karen Torosyan at restaurant Bozar on Sunday 18 November for lunch. Moreover, Pauly has also inited a former mentor René Mathieu, the creative and passionate chef of La Distillerie at Chateau de Bourglinster in Luxembourg to cook at his restaurant. The latter, who focuses on vegetal cuisine and was the first ever … [Read more...]
Archives for August 2018
What I have been up to this summer
I’ve spent over a month in Malta and writing went on the back burner for a few weeks. Despite the good intentions, including the desire to wake up early morning to write and exercise, the tiredness and heaviness of the previous months took their toll. I did not realise the extent till I found myself waking up late in the morning on the first days of my vacation without any energy and desire to do anything other than cook and be lazy. Add to that a WIFI free house and the stifling heat of a Maltese summer and you will sympathise with my plight. But that’s the point of summer after all. Most of the time was spent cooking (and sourcing ingredients), reading, swimming and recharging energies which should enable me to get back to the usual routine. Cooking this summer was spontaneous depending on what I found in the shops close to home without much planning or following recipes. This spontaneous cooking meant that I didn’t even bring out the barbecue this summer since I … [Read more...]
Hans Neuner: The Austrian chef who fell in love with Portugal
It has been a hot summer’s day in Portugal. Temperatures have soared to 43 degrees celsius at the Herdade dos Grous farm in the Alentejo region which we visited with Hans Neuner, chef of two Michelin star restaurant Ocean and Kurt Gillig, the managing director of Vila Vita Parc who has invested in this 1700-acre farm to produce organic products for its hotel and restaurants. The heat is stifling. It is like nothing I’ve experienced before. But the evening promises to be cooler as we head to the Atlantic Ocean to fish for calamari. We set foot in the cold sea to board the fishing boat outside the idyllic beach in front of Vila Vita Parc and we are off to get a taste of what its like to fish for mackerel and calamari. We’re on a small fishing boat with Hans Neuner who never imagined he would still be in Portugal when he arrived here in 2007. “When I arrived, I had given it two three years to try it out and see how it goes. But I fell in love with it and stayed. You will not … [Read more...]
‘We are here to preserve what we have’ – Jorge Raiado of Sal Marim
Jorge Filipe Raiado of Sal Marim knows his salt. Since taking over the salt business in 2007 he has been perfecting the art of flor de sal or (sea salt) in the idyllic surrounding of Castro Marim, a nature reserve in the Algarve. “We are here to preserve what we have,” he tells us on a visit to harvest salt together with Hans Neuner chef of the two Michelin star restaurant Ocean at the Vila Vita Parc in the Algarve. The salt pans have been there since the Romans with canals which bring in the sea water on a daily basis especially during the hot summer months. The sea salt is drawn into the salt pans and the water is allowed to evaporate. Most of the water goes to the bottom of the salt pans and becomes ordinary sea salt but some salt crystals float on the surface of the water forming a delicate crust of crystals which is collected by hand. This type of salt called flower of salt can only be collected when it is very sunny , dry and with slow, steady winds. It is a … [Read more...]
ALT, the new project by Niko Romito in Castel di Sangro
ALT is the new project which Niko Romito, chef of three Michelin star restaurant Reale, considered to be one of the best restaurants in Italy if not the best. The project is part of the Niko Romito academy which will enable students of the school to run and operate this place along the road (the Statale 17) of Castel di Sangro where he and his sister operated their first restaurant before it moved to Casadonna. Niko Romito said the new spot will be completely managed by the students including the communication and social media. The idea behind the project is for people on a road trip to stop and spend some time eating, dining, having a snack or breakfast in an informal place on the road. ALT is the natural extension of the bread laboratory PANE which is just behind ALT. It is from here that bakery products which are either sold or delivered to various places in Italy are made. Niko said that the students will use the social media accounts (Facebook and Instagram) of the … [Read more...]
It is time to rethink Italy again: Why Italians hope Bottura’s rise to the top can put the country in the culinary spotlight
When Ferran Adria placed at the top of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list successively he not only helped to make a name for himself and his restaurant el Bulli but he also lifted the fortunes of Spain and its gastronomy for good. Italians are now hoping that Massimo Bottura’s second top position in the space of three years will have a similar effect. Look at the world’s leading chefs today and most of them will have one thing in common. They have nearly all trained at the Adrias’ iconic restaurant el Bulli. No one has had an impact like the Spanish chef over the past years and one can say he has given chefs like Massimo Bottura and René Redzepi and many others the license to reinvent restaurants. There is maybe no one today who has the aura that Ferran Adria had though in a few years we may look at a number of today’s stars in the same way. Booking months in advance to secure a table at el Bulli was the order of the day in its heyday. Today that phenomenon is common in many … [Read more...]
Pino Cuttaia to organise Cooking Med in Agrigento, Sicily next year
Pino Cuttaia, chef of two Michelin star Sicilian restaurant La Madia will be organising Cooking Med, an event that will bring to the fore sustainability of the sea and focus on themes like marine pollution, seasonal fishing, cooking ‘humble fish’ and the geopolitical role of the Mediterranean. The first edition of the event takes place in Agrigento in September 2019. Cuttaia loves to call the Mediterranean Sea his garden and has decided to launch this project which aims to bring topics that have always been close to his heart from sea sustainability to the cultural role of the Mediterranean into the spotlight. He has been inspired by his friend and colleague Norbert Niedekofler, the organiser of Care’s and Cook the Mountain. Cuttaia’s aim is for Cooking Med to become a laboratory for research on gastronomy. He aims to bring together the traditions of various Mediterranean countries and explore the resources, passions and heritage of these countries. With Cooking Med, he … [Read more...]
Chef of the century Joel Robuchon dies aged 73
Joel Robuchon, the French chef who owned and ran restaurants around the world including several that were awarded three Michelin stars, died today in Geneva aged 73. French newspaper Le Figaro reported that the French chef, one of the most influential chefs in the world who inspired a generation of chefs, died of cancer. The French chef was named the "chef of the century" by the Gault et Millau restaurant guide in 1990. Among his most iconic dishes was the Humber mashed potatoes cooked with a decadent amount of butter. He owned restaurants in cities from Paris to Monaco, Hong Kong to Las Vegas and Tokyo to Bangkok and over the past years was famous for his Robuchon, known for his mashed potatoes among many other dishes, owned restaurants in cities including Paris, Monaco, Hong Kong, Las Vegas, Tokyo and Bangkok. He was the chef who held the most Michelin stars ever in 2016 with 32 (31 this year) including five three-star restaurants. He started a revolution with his “Atelier … [Read more...]
Dealing with loss: Cherishing the memories of a loved one through food
A few Christmases ago, my father was standing next to me at the stove as I was preparing the traditional Christmas lunch which I’ve been cooking pretty much since I met my wife in 2000. He asked me a very simple question. Where did your love for food and for cooking come from? And while that might look like a very simple question, my relationship with food, as Facebook would say, is complicated. It is a question I’ve often been asked and the best answer is probably centred around the key people in my life, that is my wife, my parents and my parents-in-law. This is maybe the closest that I’ll get to answering this question for the time being. The story is much longer and includes many twists and turns and stories along the way but you’ll get the gist below. A few weeks ago, as readers of the Food and Wine Gazette newsletter know, I lost my mother-in-law. For my wife who lost a mother and for me who lost a second mother, it was hard, very hard, made more complicated and difficult by … [Read more...]